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Up Close with Orcas; the Residents of Robson Bight.
By Ron Smith
The frigid ocean water drips between our fingers and
our kayaks glide silently over the unfathomable depths
of Johnstone Strait. They head towards us. Their
glistening black dorsal fins scale two metres high and
they breathe blows that sound like a steam train.
Within minutes, we are surrounded by killer whales
surfacing in a ritual that has existed for thousands
of years.
Often misinterpreted by the common term "killer
whales", the orca is actually the largest member of
the dolphin family, is highly social, organized and
intelligent. Eager to learn more about these majestic
mammals, we set off by ocean kayak for six days around
Robson Bight and the nearby islands.
Our journey begins with a 4.5 hour drive north of
Nanaimo to Telegraph Cove, the northern terminus of a
telegraph line prior to the First World War. As we
paddle out of the cove, it is difficult to imagine
this picturesque shoreline village on stilts, as the
bustling community it was 80 years ago. Following two
hours of paddling, we arrive at Kaikash Creek, almost
1.5 kilometres north of Robson Bight. This is our camp
for the evening. The only visible light is our fire,
the stars and the passing fishing trawlers.
Robson Bight is a large bay where the Tsitika River
dumps its silty waters into Johnstone Strait. Located
on the northeast corner of Vancouver Island, the Bight
is known for its "rubbing beaches". Here, many of the
220 resident orcas come to rub themselves along the
gravel bottom. The exact purpose of the "rubbing
beaches" is still not fully understood. In theory,
young orcas learn social skills necessary for survival
and adults indulge themselves with a good back
scratch. The area is protected specifically for orcas
so they can socialize and interact unimpeded by human
activity. Marine traffic is not allowed directly in
Robson Bight and is strictly enforced by wardens.
In the morning, a cup of "cowboy coffee" in hand, we
prepare to cross the strait and make our way to
Blackfish Sound and the Indian Group of Islands. A
spontaneous splash captures our attention as we pack
our kayaks. Three young orcas and two large adults are
10 meters offshore in the shallows. We watch in awe as
they silently glide into the Bight.
A flooding tide helps us make the crossing and carries
us into Whitebeach Passage and the sheltered waters
around the islands. We arrive at Village Island, the
largest island of the Indian Group. From a distance,
several abandoned homes are visible along the
shoreline. This was the site of a large native
community in the 1940's, with a population over 100,
the "Village of the Last Potlatch".
Potlatches, or feasts, were outlawed in a government
assimilation policy that aimed to exterminate native
culture. In 1921, a defiant chief who held a potlatch
was arrested and ordered to release all of his regalia
to the government as punishment. There are still
remnants of the traditional native long house and
several fallen totem poles that once stood along the
shore. The last native family left the island in 1969.
In the remaining hours of daylight, we paddle to our
next campsite along the rocky shores of Berry Island.
On the northern side of Berry Island are the remains
of native residences from those early days. A path
leads
to a rocky outcrop where several skulls, rotted rope
and shards of wooden boxes are crammed into a large
crack in the rock.
We begin our return crossing of Blackfish Sound via
Hanson Island, the site of Orca Lab. Here, researchers
and volunteers listen year round for orcas with
hydro-phones, (underwater listening microphones.) They
monitor activity from look-out stations and identify
individual orcas by markings on their dorsal fins.
They track and record their movements to better
understand their feeding, breeding and interaction
between different members of family groups.
After a leisurely paddle, we camp on a small unnamed
island east of Hanson, with a fantastic view of
Johnstone Strait and Blackney Passage. The running
tide offers glimpses of turbulent waters that create
large whirlpools and standing waves. The atmosphere is
filled with earth trembling sounds of a waterfall, as
millions of litres of water force their way through the
passage.
The next morning dawns with grey skies as we wait for
orca activity in the area. We are informed via marine
radio, that a large pod is leaving the Bight and
heading in our direction. We decide to wait in the
straight, floating and biding our time. Our patience
is rewarded. Within an hour, we hear the approach of
breathing blows from the pod still several kilometres
away. My portable hydro-phone allows me to hear the
faint "whale song". To my untrained ear, the
vocalization sounds much like Flipper, the famous
television dolphin.
With excitement and anticipation, we wait. We are
surrounded by 50 or 60 orcas gently swimming at the
surface in what is known as "resting". This large
group swims around us, sometimes no farther than one
or two metres away. We can see large dark figures underneath
us as they briefly appear and then disappear into the
Strait. Their presence triggers our
adrenaline--pulsing hard through our bodies.
Although orcas are generally not aggressive, it is
intimidating to be surrounded by numerous six ton
mammals, whose 10-meter bodies, dwarf our six-meter
kayak. We paddle aggressively to make it back before
the wind begins. To our surprise, orcas surface
directly in front of us to escort us safely back to
Telegraph Cove.
If You Go:
Kayak tour operators:
Discovery Expeditions 1-250-756-0094 email:
paddle@orcaseakayaking.com
North Island Kayaks 1-877-949-7707 email:
nikayak@island.net
Kayak rentals $40 Cdn/day. Economical rates for
multi-day rentals. Hydro-phones, VHF radios and other
emergency equipment available.
Multi day tours range from $770 Cdn for a four day
tour to $1,050 Cdn for a six-day tour.
Stubbs Island Whale Watching: 3-4 hour charter tours
on 60' heated vessels. Small portable hydro-phones
available $200 Cdn 1-800-665-3066 1-250-928-3185 or
www.stubbs-island.com
Quarterdeck Marina & Resort: 1-877-902-0459
A convenient base for eco tours around northern Vancouver Island
Telegraph Cove, 1-250-928-3131 or 1-250-928-3161.
Accommodations: guest houses, cabins, campground and
RV park. Local services: boat launch, boat gas, post
office and a general store for fishing licenses,
tackle, tide tables and minor provisions.
A VHF marine weather radio is strongly recommended. Maps of the
area (Marine Chart 3546-Broughton Strait).
Village Island Tours and Information: 1-250-282-3338
email: villageisland@telus.net
Tourism VancouverIsland:1-250-382-3551
email:tavi@island.bc.ca or www.islands.bc.ca
ORCA-FM radio broadcasts the sounds of whales. Tune in
to CJKW 88.5 within 15 kilometres of Robson Bight.
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